The 136-S is a straightforward build for an experienced pilot. There’s not a lot to do but due to the small components it does require a steady hand and some forward planning. Fortunately we’ve taken the stress out of it with this step by step guide to building your new favourite quad.
Lay out a tidy work surface with all your parts, wires and tools where you can see them. The newer micro range do not offer the same build choices as the other Atto frames. We’ve thoroughly tested this design to give it the perfect weight and balance with these components to give the best possible ‘big quad’ feel in a tiny package.
Our build kit:
- 136-S frame kit, 30mm standoffs, 3mm Swift plate
- Piko 20mm f3 flight controller
- Gemfan Maverick 24A ESCS
- T-Motor T1 1407 3600kv motors
- Runcam Swift Mini camera
- Innova 25mw VTX
- Uf/L Dipole antenna
- DSMX satellite receiver
- Racekraft 3076 props
Build weight 162g
We’ll also need:
- A temperature controlled soldering iron
- Fine solder (1 or 2mm)
- Heat shrink of various widths
- Helping hands or similar clamp (useful)
- Circuit/continuity tester
The 20x20mm Flight controller and VTX stack is the perfect micro hub for our build. It’s tiny, has everything we need and saves a lot of space with it’s integrated PDB, VTX and OSD.
We’ll start by working out which way you want to mount it in the frame. For this build we want the antenna connection for the VTX in the middle of the frame so that means rotating the FC 180° so it’s facing backwards. We can sort out the motor connections later.
once you have that figured out, you’ll need to setup your FC mounting hardware. The long alloy bolts will support the FC and VTX. the smaller ones will support the FC from underneath. Your frame should look like this.
Decide on a route for your main battery leads. We’ve kept them short to minimise weight and left them to one side.
Your ESCS may come pre-soldered with wires. If so, remove the motor wires and depending on the size of the ESC you may want to move 2 wires to make the build easier. The Maverick 24A’s we’re using come as bare boards so it’s easy to position the wires where we need them. Once the wiring is complete we’ve used heat shrink to wrap one half of each ESC, leaving the motor tabs available for later. Note also that two of the ESCS have been flipped upside down to allow easier connection to the FC.
You can choose how to route your cables but we chose to run the ground wires around the standoff, under the FC and up onto the PDB rail. the positive wire then loops round and onto the centre pads. Leave your signal wires for now but be aware when you solder that you need to leave space for the rear standoff. Note in the picture the shape of the positive wires at the rear. For this build we’ve over specced our cables. Most builds won’t need this wires this thick, especially if you’re running 1306 motors.
The front ESCS are a straight run to the PDB. Note that we’ve fitted some temporary standoffs so we can route the cables around them. Try to keep these cables as flat as possible to the frame as our camera will need to fit on top of them. Once each ESC is connected it is taped to the arm just to keep it in place for now.
At this point we also need to connect our ESC signal wires to the FC. Because we spun the FC around at the start pay attention to where each signal wire should go. On this build each signal wire passes diagonally under the FC before connecting to the pad.
RX and FPV
We’re using a DSMX satellite receiver that has been de-cased and de-plugged to make it as tiny as possible. The plug has been directly soldered for a low profile and it sits very neatly on top of the FC with the receiver wires safely out of the way of the props. If you’re using a larger receiver you’ll have space to run it underneath the top plate and behind the camera. We’ve just used some double sided sticky foam to secure it.
With that in place, it’s time to add your VTX. If you’re using pins to connect the VTX like we are, you’ll need to use the clear spacers on the standoffs as shown. We then pushed the pins through the VTX solder points and soldered them individually. At the same time, we’ve added an XT-30 connector to the main battery cables. Keeping it nice and short should keep any long Lipo cables out of the props.
Grab your motors and trim the cables to the correct length to match the ESCS, if you’re brave you can do what we did and cut them really short. If not you can loop them around to give yourself more room to work. Before soldering the motor connections add another loop of heat shrink around the ESC. Once soldered this will cover the motor tabs and protect the ESC from moisture and dirt as well as looking clean.
With all 4 motors soldered you should now have a nearly working quad. Check all of your connections with a multimeter and if you’re happy it’s time to plug it in.
DO NOT plug in the quad with the VTX installed unless you have an antenna attached.
The Innova VTX (and similar clones) do not do well on the stock setting of 200mw. The first thing you have to do is turn them down to 25mw. To do that you need your sticks and camera working so for now, remove the VTX and if you’re happy you have no shorts and everything is right you can plug it in and setup your FC software and receiver.
Use the titanium bolts to fit your three standoffs, attach the swift mini bracket to the top plate as shown using an M3 bolt and connect the camera to the VTX port labelled ‘camera’. Add your choice of uf/l antenna and props and you’re done.
One super stretch 3″ giant killer is ready to rip. Now go fly!